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November 30, 2004

November 30, 2004

Can’t believe it is the night of the last day of November. This year went by so fast I seem to have barely noticed its passing. Only one more month, then 2005. I am looking forward to that year as I do all years. It seems many people I know dread the passing of years because it means they are also getting older a year at a time. I love getting older. Every year brings such amazing stuff. Yes, some of it is tough, but I always learn from even the ‘bad’ stuff and then have an even better time for the experience.

My first try with interviewing went well. Njaan, the old seer, loves to talk and we got some interesting stories out of her. Just as the interview was winding up, she started to get really into the old memories and started reciting Samburu tongue twisters, telling old stories and singing songs. It was fun. Speaking of songs, I just came from my in-laws’ house where I was recording some of the songs sung on the night before a wedding. Tomorrow is one of my niece’s wedding and the bridegrooms family brought some required cow this evening and I can still hear them now across the dry river bed from my house singing with the girls. This is the last night my niece will sing as a young uncircumcised, unmarried girl. I still see her as being very young, maybe 17 or 18, but fortunately the man she is to marry is also relatively young and of the warrior age group, instead of some old man acquiring a third or fourth wife. She is the first wife of this guy and with the changes in culture these days, probably will remain the only wife. Tomorrow I hope to record some more of the wedding songs for my cultural audio history and to take some pictures. I had gotten some pictures of another niece’s wedding in May but they were both school educated and only wore the traditional clothes as a costume during the wedding. One can always tell when looking at the pictures that even though they look traditional, they aren’t really completely comfortable in what they are wearing. They have been too long in western type clothing. This couple marrying now, and both of the families, have never had modern education, though are fully ‘educated’ in the traditional ways, so their attire, surroundings and ceremonial activities will be completely Samburu. My niece has been a herder her whole life, both of goats and camels. Boys usually herd cows, unless there are none available and then girls will herd those as well. But my niece had 4 brothers that take care of the cows. And for her being married, they will get some more to add to their herd. People outside of the Samburu culture say that ‘selling’ the girls for cows just makes them property, but I think bride price like here is a much better way than if it is dowry, like in places like Nepal and India. There, dowry, the giving of wealth to the groom’s family, is the norm. Because of the bride price, Samburu families value their girls just as much, if not more, than boys. Yes, it can bring problems as well, like early marriage for the wealth and not allowing them to get educated. But that is at least better than not being wanted at all when the birth of a girl only makes a family see the expense of getting her married later on as a burden. I experienced many times during my 3 ½ years in Nepal, the birth of a girl being greeted with sorrow, even being rejected and given away or not treated for illness such that the girl might die. I have never seen that here in the 10 years of my living with the Samburu people. Except in some cases were the family has many girls and no boys and would have liked some of each, the birth of a Samburu girl is always met with joy. In the perfect world, there would be neither bride price or dowry, I assume, and all children loved equally all of the time in every place. But as this isn’t a perfect world by a long shot, and traditions are still strong in many parts of the world, I would rather see the tradition of bride price, and the cherishing of the girl child, as in the Samburu. That at least gives a base for working on bringing more equity in other areas of women’s lives like education, right to property and power sharing.

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Photo by Nancy Stills

November 28, 2004

November 28, 2004

Peace at last. Ngurunit. Beautiful land of hills, mountains, acacia trees and river valleys. We arrived Wednesday night about 4 days ago after a very long journey due to the mud. We had planned to leave by 7:00 am but due to losing the keys, we finally got organized and left Maralal at 9:30 am. We started out well only to be hopelessly stuck in a huge ditch in the pouring rain 15 minutes later going up the hill above Marlalal. Fortunately we were still in the mobile phone network and I was able to call a friend to bring a tractor to pull us out. That operation took until 12:30 pm when we were finally towed to the top of the hill and sent on our way. Less than a half hour later, we got stuck again on top of the hill but were this time fortunate to have a group of army land rovers passing by, so the soldiers came and pushed us out. The boys thought it all great fun and the dogs kept leaping in and out of the car whenever they got the chance. Between dogs and us, the inside of the car acquired a think layer of mud. My shoes were so covered with the sticky stuff, I just gave up trying to clean them, took them off and drove barefoot all the way to Ngurunit. But we finally made it about 8:00 pm and that was the important issue. Reuben and Naiboku, who had gone a couple days ahead to meet our visitors, were very happy to see us arrive safely, despite being a bit muddy and dirty.

One unfortunate result of the rain that turned out to be even in Ngurunit, was that the UNDP visitors I was going to meet on Wednesday actually got rained out. They had ended up getting stuck on the way to Ngurunit on Monday from the other direction and spent a night sleeping in their cars. They finally reached Ngurunit to meet Reuben on Tuesday only to find it raining so hard, they could not cross the river or have many community meetings. So, instead of waiting for me to arrive Wednesday, they decided to cancel the rest of the trip and try to get back to Nairobi through the Maralal road. This meant I met them in Baragoi about 4:00 in the evening going the opposite direction of myself. We talked 5 minutes and got to warn each other of the worst muddy spots and then we all took off trying to get to out various destinations; me to Ngurunit and them to Maralal. But they promise to come to Ngurunit again in January when it isn’t raining.

Without UNDP visitors to meet with, the last four days I have spent my time mostly just hanging out. Baking, reading, playing guitar, walking through the hills with the dogs, swimming with the kids and generally relaxing and recovering some peace in my soul. Yesterday I did take the morning to sort out the basket sales payment for the women. Those that had sold baskets were so happy to get the money. For most it is their only income and it makes me happy to see the progress I have been having in finding markets for the women’s products.

Today I will start a new project of a more personal interest. This is to start recording the wisdom, history and experiences of the Samburu elders such that it can be preserved for future generations. I want to create an audio history listening center within my community resource center that anyone can come to and listen to the stories and heritage of this rich culture. The youth are forgetting and the elders who know are dying. I’m excited about this project and others are also starting to take interest. After sorting out the technical issues today, tomorrow will be the first interview with a very interesting woman who was a potter in her younger days and then became a seer and fortune teller for the Samburu people. Her travels and experiences might fill an entire CD. It will be a preserved treasure that would lost if she died before being able to share her wisdom with the younger generations in this way. One she is only the start of collecting many more such treasures.

November 23, 2004

November 23, 2004

Just looked at the date of the last time I wrote in this journal. September 28th. Couldn’t believe it. Almost two months. It seems just like yesterday, time has flown by so fast. And yet it also seems like years ago with all the things I have done and the places I have been since then. As it will take books to write it all in detail, I will just put down the highlights to catch myself up. And I think I will start with where I left off, the Germany prize. I have just arrived this morning back in Maralal after being in Germany last week to receive the prize. It was a very good time with meeting a lot of new connections and seeing a lot of my old friends I have in Germany. Unfortunately, UNIFEM could only fund one person to go so I was the chosen one. I don’t exactly look Samburu, but I took my beaded headband that my sister-in-law made for me so I could at least be identified with them. The only other group member with a passport was Nankaya and there were too many constraints to be able to send her alone. She speaks only Swahilli, can’t read or write very well, and was only ever on a plane for the first time in October. That was an experience for her. We had so much fun together in Italy. There were 5000 people from 130 countries attending the Terre Madre meeting of food communities. There were 52 people from Kenya alone. That helped Nankaya adjust to the strange, cold environment as she had others who understood Swahili to talk to besides me. I don’t think she would have enjoyed Germany with me alone. And it was twice as cold as Italy. It even snowed. Not only did Nankaya enjoy Italy, but the Italians enjoyed her. They found her incredible beads very beautiful and her picture ended up in La Stampa, a national Italian Newspaper (I think national, maybe only from Torino. As my Italian is non-existent, couldn’t read it to find out. Just looked at the pictures).

In between the Italy and Germany trip, I went with the kids for the weekend to Ngurunit to have a meeting with the women about the UNIFEM award and get their comments and pictures for the ceremony. On the way back, we had problems with punctures and the normally three hour trip from Baragoi to Maralal took almost 8 hours. Messed up my whole schedule for getting prepared for the trip. I had no time to prepare my presentations or pack in Ngurunit so I just piled everything I thought I might need in the car and sorted it out in Nairobi. That meant I was still packing my bag with the taxi to the airport waiting outside and then picking the presentation posters from the printers on the way to the airport. Yikes. I have never caught up with the time since then, it seems. I returned this last Sunday morning with the plan to be in Maralal by that evening and then to Ngurunit by Wednesday morning (tomorrow) to meet with some donors (UNDP) for making the next year’s plan for projects. Well, as I always say, the only plans you can make in Kenya, is that plans will change. Sunday turned into leaving Nairobi Monday which turned into leaving to late to arrive in Maralal and finally getting here (Maralal) this morning, Tuesday.

But, the reasons for the lateness were mostly very good. Just as I was to leave Nairobi, I called the US Embassy to finalize with them the plans for their visit to Ngurunit and Seren next week. It was to be able to sign the contract with the Seren community for their water project which has been approved. Unfortunately, I found the plans had fallen through. Fortunately, the coordinators of the US Embassy fund decided I could manage the signing and community meeting. So I had to take the time to go to the Embassy and get all the papers and explanations. That means that another water project is funded for the North!!! Excitement! This will be very good for the community.

Reuben has already gone ahead to Ngurunit with Naiboku to meet the UNDP people, so tomorrow I am following with the boys and the dogs. I will also pass by Seren on the way to have them sign their part of the contract and send it back to Nairobi with the visitors. That means we will be able to start immediately on organizing the implementation phase of the project to begin early next year. Yeah! One other exciting thing in the last couple months has been the success of the baskets. I have gotten some very important contacts on USA outlets and people interested in import/export. So exciting. And the women have made a lot of money lately. That is starting to have a positive economic impact on the whole area of Ngurunit. I pray the breaks continue. I just need the time and strength to keep up with it all. I get lots of energy and motivation from all these successes lately. That keeps me going.

Tomorrow we are off to Ngurunit. I look forward to it. No communication. No e-mail. But lots of peace. I will keep busy working with the women on their different projects but a different kind of business. And we are expecting a lot of visitors over the holidays. Even a journalist who writes for one of the Kenyan national newspaper’s travel section on the weekends. That should help with attracting people to come and stay. The last year has been incredible. Can’t wait to see what the next year will bring.

 

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