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August 28, 2004
August 28, 2004
At first thought, the last 9 days have been rather routine. Reading, baking, walking along the dry river beds with the dogs and watching a movie now and then. But on reflection, I see that in fact they have been very busy, and eventful in many ways. First, with Reuben having come from Maralal to spend some days with us here in Ngurunit and having to leave again on Sunday disrupted my plan of starting on the skin tanning exercise. Instead we decided to go to spend the night camping with the children at our goat enclosure. They stay with Reuben’s brother at the base of Mt. Poi about 5 kilometers from our house. It is so beautiful there in the peaceful setting of mountain and forest. I spent the evening sitting on top of a huge rock rising out of the earth around which different families have established their homes enclosed in thorn fences. I watched the sun set as my children ran up and down the rock laughing and the goats, cows and camels wandered past the base of the rock coming in from grazing, their bells ringing and herders clucking at them to head for home. Evening entertainment was roasting a goat for dinner and playing guitar. I played guitar and let the men roast the goat, though I did enjoy eating it when it was done. The children ran around ‘helping’ and the men chatted over the fire. I find it interesting that the Samburu men are the main meat roasters here just as in my experience in America, where often the meat barbecue is the domain of the men there. Women are responsible for all the other types of food, but when it comes to roast meat, men are in charge.
Reuben ended up leaving early Monday morning and I finally went to the women’s plot to start the skin tanning process. The women had already started some steps of the process on Saturday so I found some skins ready for the tanning step. We have now put one of the skins in the locally available tanning material to see how it goes. It looks like something is happening so I expect positive results. The other skins are in the tanning agent that we buy in Nairobi and those should turn out fine. But if the experimental material proves to be just as good, this would be a great benefit. Then the women could just collect the pods from the locally available tree on a regular basis and store them instead of the difficulties of getting the tanning agent from Nairobi. One of our main constraints for work here is needing some inputs for the improved technologies that can only be gotten in Nairobi. It can take 14 hours to drive straight from Ngurunit to Nairobi and there is no public means direct from Ngurunit. So the more substitutions we can make to use locally available materials, the better.
Tuesday, Samwel, my field assistant, and I went to Seren to check out some things for water supply project proposal that is with the Us Embassy. Reuben had been doing the ground work so I had never actually gotten the chance to see the actual project site. I really enjoyed the day, walking around in the hills and river beds and talking with the community members. We discovered a few changes needed on materials and were able to make some of the adjustments that the US Embassy Self-help fund coordinator had asked for. I am hopeful that on my visit to Nairobi in September, what with the changes we are making to the proposal, we will be successful and get the funds to start the project.
Wednesday, I was back at the tannery looking at the different chemicals to put the skins in, when I heard that some people were looking for me. I ran off to find them where I heard they had gone to water their camels only to find they had gone looking for me at the women’s plot. I ran back to the dairy and finally found them and convinced them to stay the night at the women’s camp. It was a group of Americans do a camel trek to raise money for the Makinde (spelling??) Children’s Home located somewhere south of Nairobi. The leader of the trek, Amanda, is our friend from Ol Maisor Ranch that keeps camels and which the children and I had visited in June. It was really fun to meet them and hang out chatting around the campfire in the evening. One reason they had decided to spend the night was a problem with a sick camel. We tried to figure out its problem and treated it as we could. The next morning, it was better so they decided to take it with. I said good bye and watched them walk off into the wilderness.
Unfortunately, it turns out that the camel was worse off than we thought. In the evening I received a note from the tour group that the camel collapsed and refused to go on so they had to leave it was a man that happened to be walking along the road. They asked if I could please deal with it. That meant I spent the next two days driving between Ngurunit and the camel (not so far) trying to get it to walk back to Ngurunit, either to slaughter it or to care for it if I determined it would survive. Samwel and I took turns driving the car and walking behind the camel with another old man. We got quite close to Ngurunit before the camel decided he was too tired to continue and lay down. As a camel is a very big creature, there was nothing we could do about this. So we decided to let him sleep there awhile. That first evening the camel didn’t look good but we decided he would survive the night and maybe even pass some crisis and get well. In the morning, the camel got up and continued walking towards Ngurunit and even looked quite strong. The camel made it almost to my house before wanting to rest so we left him where he lie down. We gave him food and water and decided we didn’t need to slaughter him because he seemed he was improving. In the evening, I was in my house relaxing with a good book. I was just about to get up and go to see how the camel was and to bring him all the way to my house. Suddenly, the old man comes running in the yard shouting about how the camel had died. I jumped into the car and rushed to the site. Sure enough, there was the dead camel lying in the dirt. Depressing. Two days of trying for nothing. That is the way it is sometimes. Lots of effort with little to show. We disposed of the camel and the women have a new camel skin they are working on now.
The next day, after my unfortunate camel experience, I spent the day with the basket weaving women starting a new basket weaving society. That raised my spirits again as it is so exciting to see the efforts in marketing the women’s baskets starting to bear so much fruit. So now Saturday is here and I have realized that things have been still very busy. But I am happy for it to be that way and look forward to what the next days will bring.
August 19, 2004
August 19, 2004
Ngurunit. Oh how we enjoy our time here. We have been here a week and two days. Lovely time. Not as restful at first, as I had hoped. But the latest several days have been really nice and relaxing. We came from Maralal with visitors in tow. Our friends from Nairobi, Sue and Colin, came to Maralal on Monday the 9th August and came in a convoy with another vehicle of visitors. They stayed the night camped on our compound and then on the 10th, as mentioned before, we all took off together to Ngurunit. On the way, we picked up four other vehicles loaded with people Sue and Colin knew who were coming from Lake Turkana. So, we arrived in Ngurunit with quite the crowd. I deposited them on the Salato Tourist Camp and then got settled into our Ngurunit existence. The kids were ecstatic to meet all their Ngurunit friends and cousins they hadn’t seen for the 3 month school term in Maralal. And Polisan was very happy to see his family. I left them playing at the house and went to the camp to check that all the visitors were getting organized in their chosen spots and to arrange for any products from the women’s enterprises that they may want for the next day. I got home quite late and found the kids still going strong from the excitement of being back in Ngurunit.
That started the pattern for the first few days. Making sure the visitors had all they needed and checking on the children now and then as they ran around the village enjoying themselves. I had planned to do no ‘work’ for at least a week, but as Sue and Colin had agreed to take an order of baskets to Nairobi, I had to call a basket weavers meeting to organize the shipment. This took 1 ½ very busy days to get everything organized and all the problems sorted out. Problems of the solar systems to get power for printing the labels. Problems of getting the correct baskets to fit the order. Problems of labeling the baskets correctly. At one point I got so fed up with it all, I dropped everything, threw the kids in the car, and went to Siangan at the base of Mt Poi to meet Sue and Colin for a sundowner. They drove their car straight up this huge rock. I parked mine at the bottom and scrambled up with the kids, one of them on my back. We sat at the top marveling in the incredible view. But eventually I had to leave the peace for a bit and get back to the basket sorting. It all got done and Friday Sue and Colin drove off with all the other visitors, taking the baskets on top of their Land Rover and leaving me to continue reveling in the peace of Ngurunit.
Which is exactly what I did for about 4 days before getting the energy to do anything else. I used the time to sit and gaze at the beauty of the mountains and to read about one novel a day. I needed that time to just vegetate. Life had been incredibly too hectic for a long time before reaching Ngurunit. I finally got the motivation to start a few projects around the house. Now tomorrow I will start some projects with the women’s group. The first will be to re-teach the tannery group some of the essential steps for tanning. The last batch of skins they did wasn’t quite up to quality standards like before. I have learned that with non-literate societies, one has to teach something time and again as there isn’t the option of writing it down to refer to later if some step or ingredient is forgotten. That has made quality control on the different products very difficult. Especially if some time passes between each instance of making something. People tend to forget unless they are doing a process every day. Some of the women are starting to learn to read and this is having a great impact on some of their work. I am able to start writing down simple instructions such that they can follow them. So, now, I will go over the tanning again and work with one of the semi-literate women to help them record it in such a way that they can refer to it in the future.
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